What's Laird Drinking Now?

From the most deified, vilified, and revered winery in the world. Romanee st. Vivant is the most misunderstood terroir in the superstar galaxy of Vosne Grand crus. It has the most beguiling nose, taking the signature spice and earth to surreal levels; yet often leaves the palate wanting. Recently the Domaine has invested large amounts of time and money in the vineyard to help the fruit reach the full potential of its terroir. ’04 is a sure sign of those intentions. From a “lesser vintage” this wine simply stunned.

Wow! Stems, cinnamon, allspice, clove, and umami. Olfactory invading spices and the sexiest oak I’ve ever encountered. Ginger, campfire, Maremma cherries, and an earth-mineral core. The nose just kills. The spicy notes almost burn the nose and palate. How do they do this? Hints of iron and citrus; but it’s always the spice. The aromas of an eastern market, soy, and black tea almost overwhelm. The beetroot finally comes in and reassures that this is Vosne.

An hour in I am held prisoner by the nose. Just stunning! So fragrant it seems to be a creature of supernatural creation. The Vosne fingerprint really shows through. So earthy, but the spice holds sway again.

Another hour and the spice still kills. Dizzying, is that a hint of nitrous oxide? Seems to be alive with action and crackle with butcher shop, earth, and tantalizing opium. The cherries come out, the wine is utterly weightless, and shows so much complexity it is scary.

Why can’t more wines smell like this? This wine is singular. The ’02, ’05, and ’09 are reputed to be significantly better still. I would truly love to find out.

I owe a huge thank you to Jay for opening this treasure.